The Old Lady and the Guest House
Maya runs a lovely little guest house, four hours walk from the nearest road. She’s a hustler. She sits on her terrace and calls out to the hundreds of trekkers who plod past every day, using her handful of English …
A Trekker from Iran
I was planning to write an article about a trekker and ended up doing one about Samira from Shiraz, Iran. I didn’t deliberately choose someone from the least represented nation on the Annapurna trekking circuit, but she was the person …
The Road to Mustang
Thursday, Kathmandu
My friend Aakash phones and asks “what are you doing this weekend?” I tell him I’m planning to get a bus towards the Langtang area, just north of Kathmandu, and go trekking.
“We’re going to Tatopani,” he says. …
Fixing a Fever with Tibetan Medicine
The most important thing in life is energy, not the kind of energy we need to run a car, but our own personal energy: the energy we need to get through the day. We take this energy for granted, at …
The Interpreter
I’m in a big room at the plush Himalaya Hotel in Kathmandu. A book about Nepal’s earthquake is being launched, I’m surrounded by well dressed people and I feel out of place.
At the back of the room is a …
Sega, a Romanian Guide in Nepal
Last time I saw Sega he was in Bucharest, on a stage, next to a beautiful celebrity TV star, in a large garden where mature trees protected us from the sun. He was launching a novel in Romanian called Namaste …